Monday, April 20, 2009

Tor: 2009 vintage

I'm calling my last spurt of Owl Tor activity the "Grade IV Train-a-thon". With some long-route prospects materializing for this summer and fall, I've put the steep pockets and jugs of the Tor to peculiar use, with a mind to build endurance over raw power, extended gumption over bursts of burl. Elijah and Phil, you probably think I'm completely ridiculous for using the Tor as a training-gym for trad climbs. Hey, maybe if I lived in Yosemite I could sample the REAL vintages of long, hard, trad routes. Until then, It's the raw whiskey of the Tor, and the occasional two-buck Chuck of Gibraltar.

My Saturday was great. Felt fit, had fun, and watched Elijah and Phil punish themselves on Strictly Ballroom (5.14a?). Managed to cram in 11 burns on 6 routes, and eek out 11 redpoints as well.

Here's my rundown:

Power, 5.11d: two redpoints
Auto Magic, 5.12a: two redpoints
The Natural, 5.12c: two redpoints
Hell, 5.12b: two redpoints
Anchor Punch, 5.12a: two redpoints
The Sea, 5.12a: one redpoint


Brian said...

Are you training for Royal Arches or Snake Dike?

Andy Patterson said...

obviously, I'm hoping to do Nutcracker. In a day.

Then I'll think about R.A.

Brian said...

Have you seen Masters of Stone VI?

It has footage of Cedar and buddy climbing Nutcracker in less than 6 minutes.


Andy Patterson said...

Cedar once free-soloed past me on Nutcracker. He stopped only to hit on the girl I was climbing with.

Obviously, since I was climbing with a rope, Cedar was more of a man. I wish I could be more like Cedar.