Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Esoterically Wonderful: Trebuchet, 5.fun

For those who didn't geek out over Medieval siege-weaponry when they were in Junior High, a Trebuchet is a cross between a giant slingshot and catapult. Without relying on the specific workings of the Trebuchet, the nature of this climb likens itself to said weapon: that is, if you botch the first move, you get forcibly flung off the arete.

Lo, the first sequence of moves.

Then I throw a heel high and left, engage those mysterious inner-thigh muscles you didn't know existed, and pinch the arete with my legs. Once established, I grunt through a series of off-balance crimps that lead around the corner.

Now, the headwall. A beautiful—but insipid—crack slashes diagonally across the face, and provides the only means of travel. A series of desperate finger-locks lead the way, culminating in a viciously hard crossover move.

If you snag the crossover, the next move makes you work even harder. Set up, roll out, and dyno for a shallow fissure. It's beckoningly close, but the poor feet, steepness of the rock, and angle of the hold conspire against you.

This is where I've been falling. Best rope-swing in town.

Images courtesy of the inimitable Jason Shepherd, Santa Barbara's ONLY current legit climbing bum.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Rogers Gate, Part II

A completed side of the gate.

Drifting holes to allow for the pickets to pass through.

Detail of the the drifted holes and joinery.

Fabrication of the "ray" detail is like putting together tinker toys.

Apples, pecorino, French cheddar, luque olives, olive bread, and focaccia: a typical group lunch at the forge.