It's not often that the Tor and one's body feel good at the same time. We've all done it: cranked hard during the week, buit up expectations, fostered redpoint hope, and then utterly FAILED at the Tor. And then there are those days where you feel so awful on the drive to Santa Maria that you almost ask Phil to drop you off at In-N-Out so you can whither away the day pounding Animal Style fries. This last Saturday began somewhere in between "blah" and "great". Justin and I arrived at the Tor ahead of Phil and the crew, and we tried to warm up on Power, which was particularly cold after 34 degree temps the night before. The jugs after the ledge were ice-cubes, and I almost fell off the top because my fingers wouldn't kick-start. But as the day progressed, the air grew warmer, and VOILA, perfect conditions: cold rock, warm ambient air temps.
Thus, I redpointed not one, but TWO of my projects, in addition to running 8 laps over the length of the day.
No Skill (5.12c) went down on my third try, and The Natural (5.12c) took two attempts. Thank you, Tor, for not smiting my ruin upon the hillside that day. If anyone knows the proper Tor-oblation, I will gladly oblige.
Here's the rundown of this all-too-rare day:
Power of Eating (5.11d): redpoint
Auto-Magic (5.12a): redpoint
No Skill (5.12c): redpoint
The Natural (5.12c): redpoint
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b): 1-hang