Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Borrowed Time

Us Tor climbers are climbing on borrowed time. It's February, and the rock isn't seeping yet—which it should be by now. As such, conditions were once again great. Elijah looked fit on Atreyu, even though no, he didn't redpoint. He did, however, one-hang Better Than Life, which is no slouch of an effort, especially after not climbing on it for a handful of months. Micah and Bridget also came, as well as Bridget's dog, Bosco, who decided very early in the day that his nose was bound for my crotch. If I wasn't on the wall, or being lowered, I spent my time doubled over, hands defending my nether-regions. I'm sure the pleasure was all yours, Bosco. Maybe next time we can get to know each other first.

Adding some entertainment to the day, a slew of SLO climbers descended on the Tor. Per our usual experience with SLO folk, bizarre and unaccountable activities were observed. We witnessed no less than FIVE ground-scraping or ground-smacking lead falls, as well as several very, very near misses (One guy almost fell with the rope twisted around his neck. Go figure.). Still, they were all nice guys, and besides the safety-poster scenarios, the shredding index was low.

I had my best day ever at the Tor (I know, I said that last week). I redpointed five different routes, and projected The Old Pro Skill (5.12d+). That climb rankles the best of us. I've even heard it rated 5.12d/5.13c (thanks, Bob). Whatever. It's still a great route, and I took some rather sizable whippers off the top. I'm going to have to earn every bit of that route.

Here's the rundown:

The Power of Eating, 5.11d: redpoint
Auto Magic, 5.12a: redpoint
When the Sea Doesn't Want You, 5.12a: redpoint
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners, 5.12b: redpoint
The Natural, 5.12c: redpoint
The Old Pro Skill: clean to the last bolt, then... I got tired?






We're climbing on borrowed time

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